My Mobile Mechanic, LLC is a group of locally owned and operated mobile mechanic service. We are based in Harford county, Md, and we service equipment at your home or place of business. This business was started by John Helmer who saw the need to create a small engine repair service that took the hassle out of dealing with conventional shops. Our primary goal is to make it both easy and cost-effective for you to get your power equipment serviced.
Everything for the tune-up is included in our low advertised price. My Mobile Mechanic, LLC never charge for unlisted extras. We bring everything we need for the job in our fully-stocked trailers. In the case that your unit needs a part we don’t have, we’ll get it to you in a matter of days and finish the job at no extra charge.
No! This is the entire premise of our philosophy. We come to you and do the work at your site so there is no pick up or delivery charge. If your equipment requires parts that have to be ordered, or we need to take the unit with us, there is a one time service call charge of $99 even if we have to make multiple trips. You just pay for parts and labor. All services on our booking page already include the service call fee in the price of the service.
Not all motor oils are the same. To put it simply, in warmer climates, most engines need thicker oil. In colder climates, most engines need thinner oil. Oil is measured by its thickness or viscosity (how fast if flows). For example, 40-weight oil is thicker than 30-weight oil. The “W” in 10W40 stands for winter, which means that in winter, this particular oil behaves like 40-weight. Using the wrong oil can cause problems with starting and poor gas consumption.
Most manufacturers recommend servicing your equipment at least once a year. All small engines use petroleum-based products. As the additives in the petroleum break down and the oil and gas is left to settle over long periods of time, it can cause sludge and a gummy residue. This residue can cause engines to “hunt and surge” or, worse, break down. Also, the sludge can block key lubricating points resulting in rapid and excessive wear. Eventually, the engine could become completely ruined.
Sharpening cycles depend on the conditions encountered by the mower. In sandy or very dry conditions, the blades may need sharpening every two to three hours. At a minimum, the blades should be checked and sharpened, if necessary, before each day of operation. Tip: Keep an extra set of sharp blades handy to replace those that become dull or damaged during daily operation.
Any high-quality 15W40 fully synthetic motor oil can be used.
Hydraulic oil should be checked daily. Make sure the top of the tank is clean before removing the fill cap. Oil level should be one inch below the top of the tank. The hydraulic oil and filter should be changed every 500 hours, or once before the mowing season. Instructions for the oil and filter change can be found in the operator’s manual.
Poor discharge is a factor of blade tip and ground travel speed. Always mow with the engine operating at full speed. Regulate operation control with ground speed. At high ground speeds, the blades cannot cut the grass efficiently. When grass is high, slow down your ground speed. Never cut more than 1/3 of the grass height. In high or lush grasses, the mower should be operated at its highest level of cut, and then re-cut at the final desired height. Uneven cut can be due to something as simple as incorrect tire pressure. Check your operator’s manual for correct tire pressure. Poor discharge and uneven cut can also be caused by damaged, unbalanced, or dull blades. Grass build-up under the deck can damage or wear the deck belt. Check the operator’s manual on how to correctly set the cutting height of the deck.
YES, Gas is only good for 3-4 months TOPS. Run the gas out of your equipment at the end of the season and use a good quality stabilizer.
Please call us at least 24 hours in advance of our scheduled arrival time so we can reschedule. Any appointments not cancelled previous to that 24-hour window will incur a service call charge.
The ignition system is the starting system for your small engine. Whether you start the engine with a pull rope or the turn of a key on an electric start motor, you're relying on the ignition system to produce a spark inside the combustion chamber.
When you start your lawn mower or small engine, you turn the flywheel and its magnets pass the coil (or armature). This creates a spark. The ignition system coordinates the timing so that the spark will ignite the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber just as it reaches maximum compression in each engine cycle- thus, maximizing the engine’s power.
Once the engine is running, the flywheel keeps rotating, the magnets keep passing the coil and the spark plug keep firing based on a specific timing.
The coil is probably the easiest thing to check and therefore the first thing to check when embarking upon ignition system troubleshooting.
If the spark jumps the tester gap, your ignition coil is working fine. If not, it needs to be replaced.
Engine quits while running? Hook the tester up between the ignition cable and the spark plug and start the engine. When it stops, monitor the window.
An ignition armature must be set at a precise distance from the flywheel. Your engine repair manual will provide the proper gap for your engine. Common armature gap ranges are .006 - .010" and .010 - .014". Armatures are often packaged with a shim to assist in setting the gap.
A spark should be visible in the tester. If no spark appears, check for broken wires, shorts, grounds or a defective stop switch.
Once you have confirmed that the stop switch is working, reconnect the spark plug lead.
Because the ignition module is electronic and does not utilize moving components, it is normally one of the most reliable part of the engine. When it does fail, it is usually due to heat caused from improper wiring of the ground wire to battery voltage.
If the engine does not produce spark, other areas of the ignition system should be checked before focusing on the ignition module as source of failure (see above).
If no fault is discovered, the ignition module itself may need to be examined. To best determine the cause of failure, please consult with us.
If you are experiencing ignition timing issues, this is most often due to a sheared flywheel key. You can also test the flywheel magnets for any potential issues.
For information regarding this, please visit our Inspecting the Flywheel and Key FAQ.
Make sure that the air coming into the carburetor is clean and free of debris by inspecting the air filter. A clogged air filter is a common cause for black smoke emitting from the exhaust.
The connections attached to the carburetors' throttle and choke plates can bind or stick when dirty. Constant vibration and wear can affect the setting of the carburetor's mixture screws.
With all of the grass, twigs and other debris that a small engine encounters, it's not surprising that even passages inside the carburetor eventually pay a price. Deposits inside the carburetor can clog fuel and air passages and reduce performance or stop the engine altogether.
Luckily, you can take care of many of these problems quickly and easily; often without even removing the carburetor from the engine. Commercially available carburetor cleaner comes in convenient spray cans for periodic cleaning of both inside and outside the carburetor.
In addition to cleaning the carburetor, many engine performance problems can be linked to maintenance issues such as stale fuel, dirty air filter, fouled spark plug, and deteriorated oil. A great way to help avoid these problems would be to perform an annual tune-up.
If you continue to encounter problems with your Carburetor, we recommend calling us.